Climax Photo & Digital News!

Quick Order List for Fuji Replacement Parts!

2012-01-13T14:42:00.004-05:00

New! You now have one page to simplify ordering the most popular replacement parts for the Fuji Frontiers.

As the number of items ClimaxPhoto now offers for the Frontier has grown so large, we decided to condense the the most in demand parts to one single page to make ordering easier for you. Now you can save time as well as money on the items you need.

We still have our main Fuji Frontier Replacement Parts index for all of our replacement minilab items.

For 2012 we are planning a major update to the site with a new shopping cart and an all new look. But don't hesitate to visit ClimaxPhoto now!

Hydra Algae Free ADE Systems for X-Ray and NDT

2011-10-19T14:25:00.011-04:00

The Hydra ADE Auto Dosing System provides the ideal solution in preventing algae slime contamination in the rinse tanks of X-Ray, NDT and Film processors. Provides set it and forget simplicity for both users ans servicers of these processors.

Removes algae, slime and bio-film. Stops algae re-growth.

Easy to fit. Maintenance free. Last for years.
Stops expensive processor downtime.
Keeps wash tanks, pipes and overflows crystal clean 24/7.
Ensures finished work is clean and blemish free.
Compatible with all makes and types of processors.

Used in conjunction with Hydra Algae Free/AD

View the typical system diagram here
Complete system includes fittings, cradle and 4x5 litres Hydra Algae Free/AD.
How does the Hydra ADE24/TX in-line system work?

The system comprises of a compact dosing pump which is connected to the water supply feeding the processor wash tanks and the processors water solenoid.
As the solenoid opens to allow fresh water through into the tanks Hydra Algae Free/AD is automatically injected into the water at the source.
The treated water circulates throughout the tanks and pipe work keeping wash water clean and algae free 24/7.
The system only operates during water change and switches off when the processor is non operational this ensures that the Hydra ADE24/TX system is not only extremely efficient but highly cost effective. The complete system with a case of (4) 5 liter Algae Free (each lasts 6 to 16 weeks) is only $780.00

If you are struggling with algae slime issues in your x-ray, NDT or film processor, the Hydra Auto Dosing System is your solution. To order call 800-444-0977 or order from our website.
If your business services these systems, call us for quantity discounts at 800-444-0977.

Photo and Card Scanner $69.95!

2011-07-21T12:19:00.004-04:00

Special Offer on Brand Name Picture & Business Card SCANNER!!!

Now you can go through those shoeboxes of old pictures in the closet,scan them into your computer and print copies or send them to friends and family.

Found a picture of the kids at their 5th birthday party? Scan it and send it to the grandchildren to show them how their parents looked at 5. Old pictures fading?

Scan them and add a new vibrancy to a new print with the Arcsoft MediaImpression software(PC and MAC) included.

Make sure the whole family has their own copies of all the
family memories.

Put the old picture into the scanner and out it comes as
a digital image ready to email or print
And as an added feature, scan in that pile of business
cards you collected over the years. The Arcsoft BizCard
Scan OCR software for windows (included) reads the information
on the business cards allowing you to save to Outlook or Excel for
easy management.
FUN, AND EASY TO USE, FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY

List Price was $149.95 Limited Special Sale Price ONLY $69.95!

Harman By Hahnemuhle Gloss and WT Gloss

2011-02-03T10:23:00.002-05:00

In response to questions we have received from previous users of the Harman Gloss and Warmtone Gloss papers, we can assure you that these papers are unchanged in the new Harman by Hahnemuhle line of Professional InkJet Papers. These papers are referred to as Gloss Baryta 320 gsm and Gloss Baryta Warmtone gsm.

Below is the information from Hahnemuhle:

COMPANY STATEMENT HARMAN by Hahnemühle Gloss Baryta and Gloss Baryta Warmtone HARMAN technology Limited uses a traditional photographic baryta fibre base in the manufacture of HARMAN by Hahnemühle inkjet papers, GLOSS BARYTA and GLOSS BARYTA WARMTONE. This is the same baryta base used in our traditional black and white exhibition quality photographic papers. GLOSS BARYTA and GLOSS BARYTA WARMTONE were designed using this key element in order to give users a unique product with the look and feel of a true photographic baryta paper There has been no change to the Baryta base, or the coating formulation used in the manufacture of Gloss Baryta 320gsm and Gloss Baryta Warmtone 320gsm for the HARMAN by Hahnemühle product range. The products manufactured for this range are the same as those used in the previous manufacture of HARMAN PHOTO PROFESSIONAL GLOSS FB Al 320gsm and HARMAN PHOTO PROFESSIONAL GLOSS FB Al WARMTONE 320gsm.

Thank you!

Welcome Back Harman Professional InkJet!

2011-01-28T13:05:00.006-05:00

Two legends.
One paper.
We are pleased to once again be able to offer the Harman Professional InkJet papers.

Please call to place your order for the Gloss Baryta and Gloss Baryta Warmtones today.

Welcome back!

Noristsu 2611 and 3000 Series Roller

2011-01-13T16:03:00.004-05:00

We are pleased to offer our new roller #48000 for the Noritsu 2611 and 3000 series mini labs. This one roller replaces the following five Nortisu part numbers.
A078801-00
A078802-00
A086568-00
A086571-00
A098517-00

The introductory price is $110.85 each. If you buy four or more, the price is only $99.50 each.

Call us at 800-444-0977 or order directly from our website ClimaxPhoto.

Inventory Reduction Sale!!

2010-11-30T13:12:00.003-05:00

Visit our Sale and Discontinued Items Page! We are adding items daily!

Photo projection lamps, paper, camera accessories, Printfile storage pages and more!!

Clearance, Sales and More!

Camera Strap Buddy

2010-10-21T09:45:00.004-04:00

New Camera Strap Buddy!

What a neat idea! The new Camera Strap Buddy attaches to the tripod mount on your SLR or DSLR camera and one side of your current camera strap. This allows you camera to lie flat against your body, not straight out with your expensive telephoto lens ready to bang into anything close to you!

Visit our Camera Strap Buddy page for more information and to order this handy, must have accessory!

Sensor Swab Price Reduction $39.95

2009-02-11T15:43:00.004-05:00

For a limited time ClimaxPhoto is pleased to offer a price reduction to $39.95 (Pack of 12)on the popular Photographic Solutions sensor Swabs! Available in three sizes for most any digital camera sensor cleaning application. When used with either the Eclipse or Eclipse E2 (based on your camera model), this represents the best and safest way to clean your sensor.

Also for a limited time the Brush-OFF is only $49.95!

Order from ClimaxPhoto!

Friday Updates

2009-02-06T10:22:00.007-05:00

This is just a short note to let you know about a few items from this week at ClimaxPhoto & Digital.

The Pana-Vue Film and Slide Scanners are back in stock.

Prices have been reduced on the Photographic Solutions Sensor swabs,

Brush-Offs and Digital Survival Kits.

InkPress Paper for Noritsu Dry Printers

2009-02-04T14:15:00.005-05:00

We are pleased to announce the availability of Inkpress Glossy and Luster rolls for Noritsu Inkjet Printers, D71010, D300, and DDP621.

These rolls are available in 4",5",6",8",10", and 12" widths all 328' long.

Fulls details at ClimaxPhoto!

New 12" x 20" ULF Film Sleeves Available.

2009-01-26T15:16:00.003-05:00

Our line of ULF film sleeving now includes the 12" x 20" size. We will begin shipping on Friday, 1/30/09. These can be ordered directly on line. Please contact us for shipping quotes on export orders. We are pleased to have shipped our ULF sleeves to North and South America, Europe and Australia. Remember ClimaxPhoto and Digital for all of your sleeving needs.

Pana-Vue Automatic Slide Viewer Available

2009-01-16T12:27:00.005-05:00

We have received a small quantity of the Pana Vue Automatic viewers, our part number 75112 and have more on the way. This popular item has been sold out for some time.

We are pleased to again offer this item on ClimaxPhoto & Digital

InkPress Pro Warm Tone Price Reduction

2009-01-05T09:31:00.006-05:00

InkPress has just notified us of an immediate price reduction of 22% to 25% on their popular Pro Baryta Warm Tone papers!
We have adjusted our prices on the website and your savings await.

Also comes news of the Pro Satin version to be available in just a few weeks.

And...please watch our blogspot for upcoming news on the Sihl line of inkjet media as we continue to grow our product offerings on ClimaxPhoto & Digital!

5" X 12" ULF Ar-Kive Sleeves Now Available

2008-12-23T15:08:00.004-05:00

ClimaxPhoto & Digital is pleased to announce the 5" X 12" ULF Ar-Kive sleeves are now available on our website. This completes our line of ULF sleeves until early 2009 when we plan to introduce the 12" X 20" sleeves.

We would like to thank everyone for the response to these products, and urge you to let us know what other items pertaining to Ultra Large Format photography we might be able to provide for you.

ClimaxPhoto & Digital has been providing products for the analog photography market for over 20 years featuring our Ar-Kive sheet, roll, and precut film sleeving as well as a complete line of products for the pro lab, mini lab and professional photographer.

8" X 20" ULF Sleeves Now Available!!

2008-12-19T10:48:00.003-05:00

ClimaxPhoto & Digital is pleased to announce the 8" X 20" 3mil ULF sleeves are in production and have been added to our line up. These can be ordered in quantities of 100 for $48.00 and quantities of 250 for $115.00 and can ship as soon as today.

Crown Film Kive Sleeving

2008-11-27T22:10:00.004-05:00

Crown Film Kive film sleeving.

We are still receiving inquiries about the availability of the Film-Kive rolls. We have plenty of stock on most styles except the 35mm 6 frame which is limited.

We are able to offer quantiy price breaks on most sizes.

Please keep in mind, when it's gone, there will be no more!

Please check out the Film-Kive and all of our manufactured Ar-Kive sleeving at ClimaxPhoto and Digital

Pana-Vue PanaScan Film and Slide Scanner

2008-11-27T21:42:00.004-05:00

The New Pana-Vue® Pana-Scan Slide & Film Scanner enables you to quickly and easily convert your cherished slides and negatives into high resolution 5 megapixel digital images on your computer at the push of a button!
The Pana-Vue® Pana-Scan Slide & Film Scanner gives you an easy way to print, share, email, archive and store all of your precious images and memories. The low cost Pana-Vue® Pana-Scan Slide & Film Scanner allows you to digitize your images in your home or office without having to use high priced outside services.
The Pana-Vue® Pana-Scan Slide & Film Scanner is compatible with Windows XP and Vista operating systems and uses a USB 2.0 port on your computer for both communication and power.
The Slide & Film Scanner comes complete with: USB cable to plug into your computer’s USB 2.0 port, ArcSoft Software Suite to allow you to capture, edit, crop & enhance your photos, Slide Holder, Negative Holder, Cleaning Brush.

Complete details at Climax Photo and Digital !

Ultra Large Format Sleeves

2008-11-26T14:59:00.004-05:00

We are very pleased with the response that we have received regarding the ULF sleeves. As you know, we have been shipping the 4" X 10" and started shipping the 7" X 17" versions yesterday.

Today as our new website is being rolled out, we have added the 7" X 11" versions and will begin shipping those on Friday.

Presently, we anticipate producing the 10" X 12" sleeves within the next two weeks. The 5" and 8" widths will probably be available after the first of the year.

We cannot produce these in any widths larger than 10". An alternative available now, are the crystal clear 1.6 mil fine art bags with resealable flaps. These are great presentation options for prints.

I would like to thank Jim and Steve for requesting we produce these wide format sleeves and we are pleased to be able to offer these.

Have a very good Thanksgiving on behalf of all of us at Climax Photo and Digital.

Welcome to our new website!

2008-11-26T10:23:00.005-05:00

Yes, we have combined ClimaxDigital and ClimaxPhoto into one website. This means all of our products are now in one location. As the photo market continues to evolve, we realize the dividing lines between professional photography and the advanced home users have narrowed, just as the traditional film and digital photography have combined for many of our photolabs.

We have added a drop down menu system to make it easier to find your items.

Look for more new products such as the wide format sleeves for film and items such as the MemoryKick MediaCenter for digital photography.

Sensor Swab Plus

2008-08-06T11:23:00.007-04:00

Announcing Photographic Solutions Sensor Swabs Plus!!!

Sensor Swabs Plus are Pre-Moistened Sensor Swabs for easy one step sensor cleaning, AND they are travel safe, can be shipped by air and approved for airline carry on!

See Our Sensor Cleaning Resource Page

ClimaxPhoto & Digital is now shipping all three sizes of Sensor Swab Plus pre moistened with Eclipse.

Click on our link for the Sensor Swab Plus page.

Please note: WE ONLY OFFER GENUINE PHOTOGRAPHIC SOLUTIONS PRODUCTS FOR SENSOR CLEANING!

Thanks again for reading.

Ilford Galerie

2008-07-08T17:00:00.003-04:00

Announcing the availability of Iflord's Galerie professional inkjet media.

We are pleased to present Ilford's products on ClimaxDigital These products, along with the Harman, InkPress and Epson lines, give us a wide range of quality papers to meet your needs.

Take a look and see what you're missing. Remember, if it isn't printed, it isn't permanent!

Paterson Darkroom Accessories

2008-07-02T16:03:00.005-04:00

Welcome to July! ClimaxPhoto is proud to announce that we have added the Paterson line of darkroom accessories and equipment to our company. This new addition complements our traditional film product lines that we have been offering since 1984.

While the transition to digital photography marches on, the demand for film related items continues. As many companies have reduced or dropped their film related products, these items are more difficult or nearly impossible to find. We at ClimaxPhoto strive to offer answers to those loooking for these items. Visit the Paterson lineup at our Darkroom Supply listings.

You will find developing trays, certified thermometers, chemical mixers, graduated containers and mixing jugs, and a wide array of other items ideal for the home developer, photography student, hobbiest or the photographic lab.

Canon 5D Sensor Cleaning Eclipse vs. E2

2008-06-26T09:51:00.002-04:00

Recently there have been questions and some confusion surrounding the sensor cleaning of the Canon 5D. We received the following information from Photographic Solutions, the inventors and manufacturers of the Eclipse and E2 solutions.

Offered below is the complete text concerning the issue, which can also be found on the Photographic Solutions website Canon 5D

To clear up the confusion, please read the following. It’s a bit long, so grab a cup of your favorite beverage and read on

Eclipse is purified methanol – 100% with virtually no water. Because it contains so little water (less than .05%) it evaporates instantly and is extremely effective at removing sticky residues such as oil droplets (which make the dust stick to your sensor – among other reasons). It has been tested extensively by many camera and sensor manufacturers, and in fact, the sensor makers were the ones who helped us put the product specifications together to make the first liquid for sensor cleaning – Eclipse. If it damaged sensors in any way, shape or form, they would have been the first to say so.

Until very recently (2007) sensors were protected by a sheet of glass acting as a UV filter or had some type of glass coated covering, so the actual sensor itself was pretty much inaccessible. When cleaning your sensor you were just cleaning a sheet of glass.

Methanol is a strong solvent and very effective cleaner.

Sony’s new Alpha camera was introduced in 2006 with an Indium Tin Oxide (ITO) coating which is placed on the UPPER (exposed) surface of the sensor. Sony tested our Eclipse, and while they found it caused no apparent damage to their new sensor, they preferred a less aggressive cleaner be used. So Sony USA approached us to help them provide a cleaning solution for their customer service operations to safely clean the Alpha sensors. Our recently introduced E2 was the result and was officially used by Sony repair facilities for their Alpha sensors. E2 contains ethanol, some methanol, and some isopropyl alcohol (IPA) which in itself contains 5% water – 100 times more water than Eclipse. Both products are currently spec’d to contain less than 1 part per million (ppm) of contaminant – the whitish haze left behind after the product evaporates and are equally pure. But because E2 contains far less methanol, it is a kinder, gentler solvent.

Naturally, when other manufacturers started to use similar coatings, E2 was the cleaner of choice.
And because E2 was a gentler solvent, it could also be used in all cases where Eclipse was acceptable.

So when Canon introduced the 5D, our E2 seemed like the right choice since this camera also features an ITO coating. Then we started to receive indications from users that in some cases the ITO coatings were being dissolved by the E2, while in no case have we gotten reports that any 5D damage was caused by Eclipse alone. Our first action was to advise people to immediately stop using E2 on 5D’s and switch to Eclipse while we researched the problem. In so doing, we discovered that another sensor cleaning company with a different cleaning method also had the exact same reports regarding its product – some 5D’s were affected, others not. When we compared notes we discovered that all of the affected 5D’s had one thing
in common.

We requested that Canon investigate this phenomenon. Canon has conducted a thorough investigation and determined that there is no quality issue with their products. However, it found that our product causes the coating on the surface of the image sensor to be removed on some EOS 5D cameras as a result of a variance in the coating on the surface of the image sensor of the EOS 5D.

So that explained to us that E2 was not the problem – it was the coating in the first few cameras that were affected. Once we determined this, we changed our recommendation for 5D’s back to our original recommendation : E2 . We completely understand the confusion this has caused and hope this lengthy explanation helps to explain why we flip-flopped. Under our No Damage Guarantee we have made full restitution to the handful of people who damaged their 5D sensor.

Remember that E2 is a slightly different formula and that it contains some water. As such, it requires a slightly different technique : If you are used to applying Eclipse, use less E2 fluid than you would for Eclipse. Once you apply E2 to the swab hold it in the air for several seconds to let it dry somewhat before cleaning. And use less pressure than you would for a cleaning with Eclipse. If you get streaks (which can happen in rare instances - usually due to high humidity) use a clean swab and wipe the sensor surface gently. E2 is a great product but its different composition requires a different technique !

Thank-you for your patience while we took the time necessary to assemble enough data to establish a pattern, recognize that pattern, understand what was happening and contact the many entities involved including camera and chemical manufacturers. While this took some time, we are now completely confident that the problem has been resolved once and for all. All of us here are deeply appreciative of everyone’s understanding and patience while we sorted it all out. We know you have concerns about sensor cleaning and thank-you for your continued trust. We are truly proud of our reputation earned after more than 25 years serving the photographic community and to be the only company whose sensor cleaning products have many manufacturer recommendations and support. There must be a reason ! We also want to reassure everyone that we continue to honor our Guarantee and that no-one should be concerned about sensor damage when they use our E2 or Eclipse liquids and our Sensor Swabs .

If you still have unanswered questions, please feel free to email or call us. We will do our very best to respond quickly, completely, accurately and most importantly - honestly.

Thank you.

Sincerely,

David M. Stone,
President
04 June 2008

We at ClimaxPhoto and Climax Digital hope this clears up your concerns about sensor cleaning of the Canon 5D. The reason we offer ONLY Photographic Soultions sensor cleaning products is because the are simply the best. Why trust your investment to anything less?

Thanks for reading and visit us at ClimaxPhoto and ClimaxDigital

Pro Digital Survival Kits!

2008-06-13T14:42:00.004-04:00

The new Pro Digital Survival Kits from Photographic Solutions are now shipping! These are the expanded versions of the original kits and include a full dozen of the Sensor Swabs, 2 ounces of Eclipse or E2, and the SensorView Magnifier.

The list price is $120.00, we are introducing at a discounted price of $114.50 per kit.

ClimaxPhoto & Digital features only Photographic Solutions Sensor Cleaning product lines.

How to Clean Your Digital Image Sensor

2006-07-18T12:04:00.001-04:00

How to Clean Your Digital Image Sensor

Despite negative press from the Internet community about sites that are "made for AdSense", I found a site that truly provides useful information about cleaning your digital image sensor. This site, UltimateSLR.com, provides links to many article concerning the nitty gritty details of cleaning digital camera sensors. Provided below are two of the same articles, with links to their respective sources, concerning sensor cleaning. Links to where to buy Sensor Swabs & Eclipse Optical Cleaner have been added.

Article #1:
Nikon CCD Cleaning Guide
Nikon CCD Cleaning
by Alexandra Morrison
There comes a time when your Nikon will need a CCD cleaning. If you keep your CCD clean you won’t have to worry about dirty photos. Here’s what I mean: Look at the image below (click in the photo to view a larger image - be prepared to recoil in horror!)

See the spots? That’s sensor grunge! Yep, bits of almost microscopic gunk that get stuck on the CCD surface. These are most visible when you use a small aperture, and can be quite intrusive. Sure you can get rid of them using your image editing software but what a time killer that is. I don’t know about you but I want to spend more time OUTDOORS, not more time on the computer!

Unlike film cameras, where your image is made on a unique segment of film that is exposed once, digital SLRs, make images on a sensor fixed inside the body. Dust and gunk can actually accumulate. So when you remove your lens, it’s like open season for all the particles in the air, to glom on to your CCD! According to some sources, a zoom lens also increases the amount of dust on the sensor and thus the frequency of Nikon CCD cleaning.

This is a critical consideration when you are outdoors in hostile or less than heavenly environments. So many of our great images are the result of environmental anomalies, like grain dust in the air – red sunsets; or moisture – those idyllic dewy summer sunrises – that we’re exposing the most critical part of our camera to these invaders, every time we change a lens!

Fuji offers a very good Guide (PDF file) to cleaning the sensors on their cameras, however, if you are the owner of a Nikon, you may be less inclined to try Nikon CCD Cleaning since Nikon doesn’t recommend this procedure as a “do it yourself” project – at least for North Americans!

But having done CCD cleaning myself, I can say, as intimidating as it sounds in some ways, it’s not difficult, expensive or time consuming.

What helped me: I read Thom Hogan’s excellent article about Nikon CCD Cleaning several times, over a few weeks before I had bolstered my courage enough to give it a try. The thought of damaging my D70, AND the worse thought of having to do without it while it go repaired were soon diminished by the sight of the crud on all my images. I took the plunge, swabbed it clean – and it was FINE!

If you are inclined to clean your sensor, the first thing to do is to see if you really have bad dust on the CCD. First, clean your lens, and your camera filters. Then... Take a photo of a clear blue sky, or a plain painted wall, at f22 or so. Open it in Photoshop, and click on
Image > Adjust >Autolevels. Do you see spots before your eyes?

I like to zoom in a little but I was still shocked at my results. If your CCD test image looks this bad read Thom's article before you do any Nikon CCD cleaning.

Here's the link again.
Then get the Fuji Guide (PDF file)

Then get the Right Stuff: I used Sensor Swabs – a highly reputable CCD cleaning tool, and Eclipse Optic Cleaning fluid. The Swabs are like jumbo q-tips on steroids! There is also specific model of swabs for Nikons. Make sure you get this size Type 2 – they have been designed to fit exactly in the sensor chamber, so you don’t need to make multiple passes accross the sensitive sensor surface (saying that is more difficult then the cleaning itself!) I’m in Canada and when I searched on-line for suppliers most US companies won’t ship the fluid out of the country, so you should look locally for suppliers.

Note: ClimaxDigital is an online Photographic Solutions retailer and will ship almost anywere in the world.

And now the Mandatory Disclaimer: I have to repeat that Nikon doesn’t recommend North Americans and probably Europeans do this procedure. Only in Japan is it recommended! So clean at your own risk.
Despite the simplicity of the Nikon CCD cleaning process, there is always the possibility that something could go wrong. If the dirt is really bad or you just don't want to take the risk, you can send your D70 to Nikon for service. They'll clean it and make sure it gets back to normal.

Article #2:
Digital Camera Sensor Cleaning
Eclipse Lens Cleaner and Sensor Swabs
Dec, 02 2004 - 02:05

Information from the Manufacturer, Photographic Solutions:

ECLIPSE lens cleaner is the highest purity lens cleaner available. It dries as quickly as it can be applied leaving absolutely no residue. When used with PEC*PAD photo wipes, it is possible to clean only the portion of lens which is dirty eliminating "hazy swirls". Dispense several drops onto a clean, folded PEC*PAD and lightly wipe surface in a single direction. Refold pad to expose a clean side and re-wipe as necessary. Each box contains a 59 ml. (2 fl. oz.) bottle with dropper applicator and 10 sheets of the PEC*PAD photo wipes. Sensor Swabs™ are designed for cleaning CCD chips and other delicate or hard to reach optical and imaging surfaces. Clean room manufactured and sealed, these swabs are the ultimate in purity.

Actual User Review

Single Lens Reflex (DSLR) users, have you ever been plagued by sky cooties, UFO’s, or other undesirables imbedded in your digital images?

Unless you are attempting to convince the Federal Government that alien space travel exists, the specks and blobs are not welcome. From the number of people I have spoken with, a dirty sensor is not an uncommon situation. So let me inquire, have you had the pleasure of cleaning your camera sensor?

If you don't know if your sensor is clean, and want to check it, here is how: Put a lens on your camera, set focus to infinity, set exposure compensation to +1, set the aperture to its smallest value (largest number), at least f22, f32 if you have it. Point the camera toward a uniformly illuminated target, such as a white wall, a piece of matt board, or even the sidewalk and take a shot. Down load and look at the image. Do you see dark spots? If so, you have dust. At wider apertures the dust specs will be much less visible. At f11 they may be very faint and at f8 or wider apertures they may be undetectable.

Now comes the problem. If you're the sort of person who looks for dust, you're likely the sort of person who will be troubled by dust and want to remove it. Here is where things could get a little tricky. And here are your choices.Your first option is, that you can send the camera back to the manufacturer or to your favorite repair shop. It will probably cost you $50, or more and you will most likely be without your camera for a week or two. There is a good chance it will come back dust free and then again there is just as good of a chance it will come back with just less dust and maybe still have a speck or two. Remember you may have to repeat this action weekly, so what do you do?

From my “Real Men Don’t Ask For Directions” file, please read the camera manual first. Contrary to the opinion of some people I have spoken with; switching the camera to the sensor-cleaning mode, does not accomplish the cleaning operation automatically! (With the exception of the Olympus E-1) This is an important manually accomplished step and a delicate procedure. Second, obtain the following products to accomplish the job.

A. a bottle of Eclipse Optic Cleaning Solution.
B. a packet of Sensor Cleaning Swabs, which are available in three sizes to fit the sensor size of your need. Be careful NOT to remove the polyethylene dust cover from the swab until the last second before use.
C. a Kinetronics “Speckgrabber” pro kit (which contains three speck grabbers, a handle, grabber cleaning solution and cleaner cloth).

Third, in a clean and dust free environment, connect up the camera to the AC power unit. The continuous AC power is to prevent shutter blade damage by a premature shutter closing due to battery failure. Unofficially, I have heard from a Canon technical representative that in the field only a fully charged battery will do in replacement of AC power (so on a river trip you may have to carry three or four fully charged batterires to ensure a spare for cleaning). A blown shutter is interesting to see, but much too expensive to replace. Fourth, wipe the camera clean with a dust free cloth and follow your camera’s instructions for opening the shutter and exposing the sensor for cleaning. Fifth, clean the sensor.

Note: Do not use any sort of "canned air" for this. Canned air is too powerful and the types that are liquid driven will "spit" liquid trapped in the gas stream on to the sensor and if that happens you can wave bye-bye to your sensor. They may also freeze the sensor, which again will result in damage. Moving forward, if there are particles large enough to see with the unaided eye, use a speckgrabber to remove them first. Then unwrap a swab and apply several drops of the cleaning solution, followed by gently wiping the swab across the sensor from left to right. Use a speckgrabber to pick up all debris along the right side of the sensor (the swept to side). Apply more solution to the second side of the same swab and wipe in the same direction as before, from left to right to remove any residual from the grabber and dispose of swab.

Do Not be tempted to conserve by reusing a potentially scratchy or dirty swab.
Do Not go back and forth across the sensor and chance redistributing particles back onto the sensor.
Check visually for debris.
Repeat if necessary. If the sensor looks clean, close the shutter and proceed with the quick test that follows.

Replace the lens onto the camera body and photograph the same test target as discussed above. Down load the image into the computer. Enlarge the test image and visually scan the screen for any sign of sensor contamination. Repeat the joy of cleaning, if necessary. A contaminated sensor presents a real world problem within your digital workflow. At worst it could shut down a photo session until you could return to a clean, dust free area with AC power. Since the cleaning procedure is difficult to carry out while on assignment or in the field, if I may be so bold, I will offer a little tried and true preventative advice. Camera sensors are terrific electro-magnets, so keep the body cap on the camera as long as possible. Avoid changing lenses into the wind. Wipe the camera and lenses down often with an anti-static cloth, like the orange Ilford Antistatic type.
Keep your camera bag vacuumed out and lid closed as much as possible, especially in the field. If you do get contaminates on the sensor in the field, try this emergency maneuver. With a very clean blower type ear syringe in hand, set the camera to a fifteen second time exposure (not so long that dust re-inhabits the space). Hold the camera aloft, so by gravity, any debris will fall out. Fire the shutter and puff the blower brush about the sensor, no deeper into the camera than the lens-mounting ring being careful to not allow damage to occur from the syringe being trapped by the shutter. With great care during this operation, I have been able to clean the sensor well enough to continue shooting.

Officially speaking, I have to recommend that you send your camera back to the manufacturer for cleaning. Is that enough of a disclaimer?

May all of your adventures be exciting, your pictures beautiful and you - successful.
Eclipse Cleaning Solution and Sensor Swabs.
Kinetronics Speck Grabber Kit.
From askRodger@pictureline.com

Article #3
Cleaning the Sensor/CCD

It's an inescapable fact of life that dust will eventually plague your digital images .. and life's just too short to fritter it away cloning out dust spots from your images.
It's much easier, (though more nerve-wracking), to clean the digital sensor of your camera.
You have two choices ..
Using the Mirror Lock-Up option in the Set-Up Menu, but for this you would need one of the Nikon AC Adapters for your camera, such as the Nikon EH-5 AC Adapter for the D100. This costs you extra money, and you also risk the mirror and shutter coming down while you're cleaning the CCD should there be a power interruption. (Unless you invest in a Uninterruptible Power Supply.)

I had an unfortunate event where for some reason the shutter of my one D100 body closed on the Pec-Pad I was using to clean the CCD with, and the shutter curtain popped out of its rail. I managed to flex it back in again and fortunately the shutter curtain was undamaged and had no kinks in it. That D100 has since worked without a problem for the past year .. but this is the reason I sold my EH-5 adapter, and settled for the following method of cleaning my CCD ..

You can set your camera to Manual mode and to a shutter speed of 30 seconds, and then be very careful that you take much less than 30 seconds at a time while cleaning your CCD. If not, then the mirror and shutter curtain is going to come down on your sensor swabs.This option isn't ideal either - you need to be very careful and clean your CCD with a series of actions where you trip the shutter and proceed to clean the CCD in much less than 30 seconds, and repeat this until you're done. Alternately, you can set your camera to Bulb and lock the shutter with a remote release. This will give you all the time you need to clean your CCD, unless there is a glitch and the electronic release malfunctions or the mechanical release slips .. it might be a costly way of doing it. ;-)

What I use to clean my CCD ..

I use CO2 gas cannisters from American Recorder Technologies to blow dust off my CCD. The CO2 cannisters supposedly don't contain any propellant or impurities that could make marks on my CCD, but I've had problems with some kind of oily (?) residue being sprayed onto my lenses or CCD when I use these cannisters at full blast when they're still full. So be advised to be careful anyway.

For stubborn dust spots that won't come off with a gentle blast of air, I also use Eclipse Cleaning Kit, which contains cleaning fluid and Pec Pads. This is manufactured by Photographic Solutions, which also makes Sensor Swabs. The swabs and pads are non-abrasive and lint-free.
I have tried a Spec Grabber tool, but only ended up leaving streaks on my CCD, which I then had to carefully get rid of with the Eclipse Cleaning Kit.
More info on cleaning your camera's CCD:

Cleaning your CCD - Thom Hogan
Cleaning the image sensor - Ultimate SLR Resource Site
The Pixel Sweeper
Please feel free to e-mail me.
Neil van Niekerk

politically incorrect / technically correct ..
The dust is actually on the Anti-Aliasing Filter over the sensor, and not on the sensor itself. This filter in the D100 is closer to the sensor than it is to the CMOS sensor of the Canon 10D, which is why the Nikon D100 shows up dust spots more readily than the Canon 10D. And just as an aside, the CCD doesn't attract more dust than a CMOS device would. It's a myth that the CCD creates a static charge that attracts dust.

Also, most people insist that you should turn the camera to face down when you mount lenses to avoid dust falling into the mirror chamber. Good advice that might just be pointless if the rear element of the lens that you're mounting, has dust particles on it. Besides .. dust floats. In the end your lens will get into the mirror chamber anyway.

Nikon D200 Sensor Cleaning

2006-07-11T11:49:00.002-04:00

In our attempt to bring you content-rich information applicable to YOU, we are in the process of adding sensor cleaning instructions for the most popular cameras. If you don't see your camera, email us and we'll find applicable information.

*Note: the opinions rendered here are independent of Climax Photo and Digital and belong to their respective owners.

Thom Hogan is a Nikon expert, and has written a Nikon E-book series entitled "The Complete Guide to the Nikon (fill in any model here)".
You can order these books by visiting:

http://bythom.com/index.htm

Nikon D200 Review
http://www.bythom.com/d200review.htm

...Sensor cleaning is not much different with the D200 than previous DSLRs, though there's plenty of "landing space" for swabs on one side of the imaging area. Nikon disclaims all but blower bulb cleaning. You can get to the sensor area by using a menu-based mirror lockup function if you have a full battery, but be careful about that--the camera comes with a failsafe: if the battery goes below a certain level you'll get an audible warning and the shutter will close shortly thereafter. There's been at least one report of someone not getting that warning. Always use a freshly charged battery, and don't dally in your cleaning...

Cleaning Your Sensor

http://bythom.com/cleaning.htm

Sensor Swabs: the original Sensor Swabs had a fatal flaw--the support mechanism behind the cleaning cloth was not reliable and allowed the edge of the cleaning surface to "break" (bend and reduce pressure, making it not clean well). Moreover, the support mechanism was relatively thick, and if damaged, could produce little plastic pieces that you had to clean up. No more. Photographic Solutions has produced a new version that has a full, thin, plastic "blade" behind the cleaning material. It's now possible to maintain even pressure across the edge without it collapsing, even when very wet. The blade itself is a very soft plastic and can't really be forced hard enough to damage a sensor or filter surface. While you can't quite put as much pressure on the edge as with homemade tools, that's a good thing in most ways. The one problem it may create is for some so-called "welded dust" particles (see note at end of article). But this is easily solved by making the Sensor Swab wetter than usual--which might leave streaks that you have to clean up by using another swab). On the plus side versus the home-grown method is that the Sensor Swabs are still made in a clean-room environment and come in sealed packs. Thus, they're ready to go on demand but you won't be having to worry about keeping your cleaning materials clean as you try to wrap them around a home-grown support mechanism. Yes, they're on the pricey side (US$48 for 12), but you won't be using a lot of them because of the other new tool that's available. Basically, you only use a Sensor Swab when you have a persistent dust particle that isn't removed by brush, or you have welded dust. Nikon and Fujifilm users need Type 2 Sensor Swabs; Kodak Pro 14n, 14nx, and SLR/n users need Type 3 Sensor Swabs.

By the way, it’ll probably take you a few tries with the Sensor Swabs to get it right.

The usual mistakes I see from first-timers are:

Too much liquid is used, and a streak is left behind.
You don’t start at one edge of the sensor and swipe past the other edge, leaving dust at both edges.
Swiping too gingerly, which tends to leave behind a few stubborn spots (and may even make them more stubborn).
Not holding the support nearly perpendicular to the filter (I use a very slight tilt towards the side I'm moving towards), or lifting one side and leaving dust on the filter on that side.
Trying to “rub” the filter clean (you tend to just move the dust around--once it is on the lint-free cloth, it can migrate back to the CCD if you use improper technique, such as not enough fluid, or rubbing motions; moreover, if you "rub" a really hard particle across the filter you can scratch it).
Doing the cleaning in an environment where there is lots of dust in the air!

Here's a couple of added tips for cleaning:

Get a headlamp. The Petzl LED headlamps work great, though you look like a geek using one to clean your camera. Using a headlamp lets you put light right where you need it, and even makes it easier to see the largest dust bunnies, if any.
Minimize the time. Because the Bayer filters in DSLRs use dye inks, I try to keep the amount of time they're exposed to light, especially bright light, to a minimum. That's not to scare you into thinking that if you leave your CCD exposed for five minutes that it'll produce poor color next time you use it; just that light accumulation to dye inks really should be minimized. If you clean in a darkish environment using an LED headlamp and don't take more than a few minutes, don't worry about it. But don't leave the camera's shutter open while you walk around the house or office looking for your cleaning supplies, decide to have lunch, watch a football game, and then come back and clean your camera! (Besides, the longer you leave the shutter mechanism open, the more dust gets into the box that you'll eventually have to clean out.)
Don't try to see it. A photosite on most DSLR bodies is about 64 square microns. You could fit several hundred photosites onto this hyphen: -. Thus, a dirt particle that covers a photosite or two can be very small--essentially invisible to the naked eye. That's one reason why I discourage use of the Speckgrabber to clean CCDs--you can only see the really big stuff.

Note: Welded Dust This type of spot usually shows up after you've moved in and out of different humidities. The best explanation I can come up with is that it is caused by evaporation directly over the dust spot, which "welds" the dust onto the top of the filter material. In other words, the dust is no longer held just by surface tension, but has actually bonded to the surface. Pollens can be like this, too, as they are slightly wet to start with and can dry on the filter material. The telltale signs of welded dust are two: (1) you can't get it off with a Sensor Brush pass; and (2) they look like a small black spot with a vague ring around it (I call them dust pimples or dust zits, because that's exactly what they look like: a small blackhead that's forming). I've never seen welded dust appear in totally dry environs (such as Southern Utah), but you can make it appear in such places by moving your camera in and out of air conditioned places. I've had the toughest problem with welded dust in Hawaii, especially when going from high up on the volcanoes (dry) to a coastal area (wet). Condensation is a factor in this case, so you can help by sealing your equipment in air-free containers before making the move.

Returning from Vacation!

2006-07-05T11:35:00.000-04:00

I can't believe that the 4th of July has come and gone!

We have seen great response to the new items offered on Climax Digital including the

Zigview-B & Zigview-R

Photographics Solutions "BRUSHOFF"

We are working on gathering user reviews and posting them on the websites.

Website Changes
A customer complained that having to click the price of the items listed on climaxdigital was confusing and that he wasn't sure how to add the item he wished to purchase into the shopping cart. Now on climaxdigital, you will have the option of either clicking the price or a small icon of a shopping cart to place your item in your shopping cart.

Photographic Solutions

2006-06-27T12:58:00.001-04:00

"Website Changes" The ClimaxPhoto & Digital website has been updated to reflect the entire Photographic Solutions product line. New products added include: Sensor Swabs Type 1, Sensor Swabs Type 2, Sensor Swabs Type 3, Brushoff, Eclipse, & E-Wipes.

"New Products Coming Soon"
Packaging Supplies

Chip Board
Mount Board
Large Print Mailers
Small Print Mailers
Anti-static cloths to remove particulate before mounting print to mount board
Glassine Envelopes
Polyethelene Bags
Preservation Pockets - for Prints

Pantone Huey
Epson Paper
Epson Ink
CD Pockets
CD Disks
CD Disk Jackets
Luxury jewel cases for Professional Photographers
PrintFile CD Packaging
CD Marker Pens
Lumocolor Pens
Fine Art Bags
Scrapbooking Supplies

Cameras & Camera Accessories

Viewfinders Zigview S2
Twin1 R3 Wireless Remote Shutter Releases
Foam Swabs and Lens Cleaning Paper
Large Format Memory Cards
Large Battery Packs

Studio Lighting
Background Paper (Flotone)

Memory Cards

and More!

If you would like to review one of these products, or add a comment, please leave your contact information so that we can follow-up with you.

Introducing: Climax Digital Blogging

2006-06-26T13:13:00.001-04:00

Each Day, the Webmaster at Climax Digital & Climax Photo will be posting news, specials, customer solutions and various articles related to the products offered at both websites. Sections will include "today's website changes" and "new products coming soon", in an effort to keep you up-to-date with everything related to digital imaging and products offered by Climax LLC.

Today's Website Changes:
ATTENTION
When purchasing a Zigview-R, it is required to purchase a shutter release cable if the RC01 (75181 - included with the package) doesn't support your camera. The Canon C2 eyepiece adapter (Canon EOS 3, etc.) and the Nikon N3 eyepiece adapter (Nikon D2X, etc.) are also required for purchase depending on your camera model.
If you are not sure about what to include with your order, please call customer service at 800-444-0977.

Customer Solutions:
I just had a customer call and state that his Zigview-R order was missing a part. He owns a Nikon D2X. The Zigview-R does come with four eyepiece adapters (N1, C1, P & M) - click here for a picture of the package contents - but NOT the N3 (part number 75153) - which fits the Nikon D1, D2, D2H, D2X, F801, F90, F100, F3, F4, F5, F6 and similar eyepiece cameras. So now the customer is unable to use his Zigview viewfinder until his eyepiece adapter (which has to be purchased seperately) arrives at his location via UPS Next Day Air. We were able to solve his problem, but would rather this type of situation be avoided by somehow finding out what camera the Zigview is intended for before shipping. The picture of the correct eyepiece adapter for his Nikon D2X is below:

New Products Coming Soon:
Photographic Solutions Entire Product Line:
Sensor Swabs (Type 1, 2 & 3)
the Finishing Touch Hand Lotion
Eclipse Optic Cleaning System
Brushoff Sensor
E-Wipes
Quick Stik

We already offer Photographic Solutions Pec-Pads & Pec-12.

Epson Inks
Epson Paper

Pantone Huey
QP Colorkit 1
QP Card
Eye-One Display LT
Color Cue 2
Eye-One Display Two
Eye-One Design
Eye-One Photo
Enhanced Eye-One Photo SG
Eye-One Beamer
Enhanced Eye-One Proof
Eye-One Proof UV
Enhanced Eye-One XT
Enhanced Eye-One XT UV Cut
Eye-One iO
Colorchecks for Digital & Traditional Photography, details coming soon.